From a modest shop/factory in Brooklyn, nestled between the Brooklyn and Manhattan bridges, Torres produces attractive chocolates for sale in his ship as well as for distribution to chocolate shops, restaurants, and #### throughout the United States and probably the rest of the world.

Mr. Torres is well known for his connection with the French Culinary Institute in New York as well as for his programs on the FoodTV network. I have seen Mr. Torres’ on FoodTV (as well as in person) and there is no doubt that he is a master craftman with a very thorough understanding of the chocolate arts—which is what you’d expect from a classically-trained pastry chef. However, like many top-notch pastry chefs, I think that the essential qualities of chocolate are less important to him than the presentation.

Type(s): Gourmet Chocolatier
Style: European
Taste Rating: Ordinary to Very Good
Overall Value Rating: Poor

Of all the reviews I will write this year (this article was originally published in 2002), this one will almost certainly be the most controversial. I have met Mr. Torres and personally I thnk he is a great guy. He is “the Emeril of pastry” in some respects and the industry needs someone like him.

However, in my opinion, his chocolates do not live up to the reputation they are given—at the price he is charging. Torres would be a superior gourmet chocolate, but it is only an ordinary prestige chocolate. In part, I think that this is because Mr. Torres uses very ordinary chocolate—standard reference formulas from Belcoalde and others; the same chocolate that hundreds of other chocolatiers use. Also, I think that this is because the essential flavors of chocolate take a back seat to the other flavorings be uses.

In particular, the milk chocolate truffle with passion fruit-flavored ganache is a case of the current obsession with intense fruit flavors at the expense of the flavor of the chocolate itself. More problematic, for me, was the advertisement for Alize passionfruit liqueur (which Torres uses in addition to passion fruit syrup in the ganache), in the tasting booklet. (I would certainly not expect to find an ad in such a situation; perhaps Alize underwrote a portion of the production and printing costs of the booklet?) Other fruit flavors that were similarly intense were raspberry and lemon (both milk and dark). However, the cinnamon praline truffle made a favorable impression.

I also liked the dark chocolate nut bark, which contained both roasted almonds and roasted hazelnuts. In many cases, bark combinations have a slightly pasty texture and an unpleasant, lingering aftertaste. But not here. The chocolate was crisp and clean, the nuts well-roasted and delightfully crunchy, and the bark had a clean finish with a nice nutty aftertaste.

Finally, the Wicked Hot Chocolate, which included both ancho and chipotle chiles as well as cinnamon and allspice is worth a try. Available from the coffee bar as well as in take home tins, this is a satisfying not-too-spicy, very adult hot chocolate.

Conclusion

At about $48/lb for hand-picked ballotins, Jacques’ chocolate is not a bargain. Given the rave reviews his chocolates have received, I was underwhelmed with my purchase and not just with the chocolates themselves (many of which left a lingering astringent aftertaste under my tongue), but with the packaging—which also does not live up to the price point. Nonetheless, the chocolates are well-crafted and handsomely finished.

What I think I missed most was finesse and subtlety: the flavors are right out in front and overwhelm the taste of the chocolate itself in most instances. 

Company Information:
Jacques Torres Chocolate
66 Water Street
Brooklyn, NY 11201
718/875-9772

http://www.mrchocolate.com/

Store hours are officially Monday through Saturday, 9:00 am to 7:00 pm.